Art is often a mirror of its time, reflecting societal values and cultural norms. However, some pieces from the past confront us with uncomfortable truths, challenging their place in modern contexts. Such is the case with a 100-year-old mural at a British restaurant, which has recently come under scrutiny for its controversial imagery. The fallout has led to the potential closure of the restaurant, raising questions about how we reconcile historical art with present-day ethics.
The Mural’s Origins: A Tale of Rare Meats and Colonial Voyages
Painted by Rex Whistler in 1927 at the age of 23, the mural, titled The Expedition in Pursuit of Rare Meats, was commissioned as a grand centerpiece for the dining room of what would become a celebrated restaurant in London’s Tate Britain gallery. Whistler’s sprawling artwork depicts an adventurous narrative, with exaggerated scenes of travel to exotic lands in pursuit of rare culinary delights.
While the mural was intended as a whimsical portrayal of exploration, it features deeply troubling imagery, including enslaved Black children in ropes and caricatures of Chinese individuals. These elements were likely unremarkable to audiences at the time but are viewed today as glaring examples of racism and colonial exploitation.
The Backlash: A Modern Lens on Historical Art
In July 2021, a critique group known as “The White Pube” publicly called out the mural, labeling it offensive and inappropriate as a backdrop for fine dining. Described by Vogue as “self-styled cowboy critics shaking up the arts establishment,” the group highlighted the dissonance of wealthy, predominantly white patrons enjoying meals in a room adorned with scenes of enslavement and racial caricature.
The critique ignited a larger conversation about the mural’s place in a modern art institution. Activists and public figures, including British politician Diane Abbott, joined the outcry, calling for the restaurant to be relocated or the mural removed entirely.
“I had no idea the famous mural had repellent images of black slaves,” Abbott tweeted. “Museum management needs to move the restaurant. Nobody should be eating surrounded by imagery of black slaves.”
Ethics Committee Review: Offensive, But a Historical Artifact
The controversy prompted Tate Britain to convene its Ethics Committee, led by Moya Greene, to assess the mural’s future. The committee concluded that the imagery was unequivocally offensive, with Greene stating, “The offense is compounded by the use of the room as a restaurant.”
Despite this, the committee recommended that the mural remain intact as a historical work of art under the trustees’ care. Removing or altering the artwork, they argued, would be an erasure of history rather than an acknowledgment of it.
The Restaurant’s Closure: A Symbol of the Debate
The fallout from the mural controversy, coupled with challenges posed by the COVID-19 pandemic, has left the restaurant in limbo. Already closed since March 2020 due to the pandemic, the establishment now faces an uncertain future. Activists have also launched petitions demanding the mural’s removal, describing the juxtaposition of fine dining and scenes of racial exploitation as grotesque.
One petition states:
“The reality of the room is truly grotesque. Where the older white demographic can go to enjoy their expensive gluttony whilst they view, with amusement, a room purposefully painted with chained-up Black children. Sounds more like a concept for a horror film than what you would expect Britain’s largest art institution to offer up as an exclusive dining experience.”
Art or Offense? Balancing Historical Value with Ethical Responsibility
The Rex Whistler mural controversy epitomizes a broader cultural debate: how should we handle historical artworks that contain offensive content? On one hand, such works are valuable records of their time, offering insight into the attitudes and ideologies of the past. On the other hand, they risk perpetuating harm if presented without critical context or proper framing.
Tate Britain’s response has been to acknowledge the mural’s problematic nature publicly while exploring ways to address it meaningfully. In a statement, the gallery explained:
“Tate has been open and transparent about the deeply problematic racist imagery in the Rex Whistler mural. In the context of the Mayor of London’s recently announced public realm review, Tate’s establishment of a race equality taskforce, and the ongoing work of our Ethics Committee, we are continuing to actively discuss how best to address the mural.”
Possible Solutions: Contextualization vs. Removal
Many institutions have grappled with similar dilemmas, and potential solutions include:
1. Contextualizing the Artwork
One approach is to leave the mural in place but surround it with interpretive materials, such as plaques, videos, or guided tours, that explain its historical context and critique its offensive elements. This allows the artwork to serve as a learning tool rather than a passive display.
2. Relocating the Mural
Some have suggested relocating the mural to a less prominent area of the gallery, where it could be viewed as a historical artifact rather than a decorative piece. The restaurant could then operate without the burden of controversial imagery.
3. Removing the Mural Entirely
A more radical approach would involve removing the mural altogether. Critics of this option argue that it risks erasing uncomfortable aspects of history rather than confronting them.
What’s at Stake: Beyond a Single Mural
The controversy over Rex Whistler’s mural is about more than just a painting. It raises urgent questions about how society reckons with its colonial past and the role of cultural institutions in fostering inclusivity. As public awareness grows around issues of racial injustice, institutions like Tate Britain must navigate the fine line between preserving history and perpetuating harm.
Conclusion: A Defining Moment for Art and Ethics
The future of the Rex Whistler mural and the restaurant it adorns remains uncertain. Whether it stays, is relocated, or is removed, the decision will set a precedent for how art institutions address the legacies of colonialism and racism in their collections.
For now, one thing is clear: the mural has sparked a vital conversation about the intersection of art, ethics, and modern sensibilities—a dialogue that will undoubtedly shape the way we engage with historical art in the years to come.
